Queen Ann’s Roses and colorful accents make up this quilted wall hanging.
- Tracing paper and pencil
- 44-inch-wide 100% cotton fabrics—2/3 yard of light rose print, 1-1/4-yard of dark rose floral, 1/2 yard of medium green print, 1 yard of dark green print, 2/3 yard of tan print, 1-1/4 yard of backing fabric
- Three different 6- or 7-inch round white crocheted doilies with scalloped edges
- All-purpose thread to match fabrics
- Contrasting quilting thread
- 42-inch square of lightweight quilt batting
- 14-inch square of tear-away stabilizer
- Quilter’s marking pen or pencil
- Quilter’s ruler
- Rotary cutter and mat (optional)
- Standard sewing supplies
- Standard sewing supplies
- Either use marking pen and ruler to mark the fabric before cutting pieces with a scissors, or use rotary cutting tools to cut the pieces as directed in the instructions that follow. Cut the strips crosswise from selvage to selvage unless instructions say otherwise.
From light rose print cut:
- Six 2-1/2-inch squares in half diagonally to make 12 triangles (A).
- Three 3-inch squares cut in half twice diagonally to make 12 triangles (B).
- One 4-1/2-inch square for lining vase.
- Twenty-eight 4-3/4-inch squares for prairie points.
- Three 4-1/2-inch circles for roses.
From tan print cut:
- One 14-1/2-inch square for center block.
- Three 3-inch squares cut in half twice diagonally to make 12 triangles (C).
- Twelve 2-1/2-inch squares cut in half diagonally to make 24 triangles (D).
- Twelve 2-inch x 8-inch rectangles (E).
From dark rose floral cut:
- Twelve 2-1/2-inch squares cut in half diagonally to make 24 triangles (F).
- Twelve 3-1/2-inch x 5-inch rectangles (G).
- One 4-1/2-inch square for vase.
- Three 4-1/2-inch circles for roses.
- Four 2-1/2-inch-wide crosswise strips for binding.
From medium green print cut the following:
- Twenty-four 2-inch x 5-inch rectangles (H).
- Twelve 2-inch x 8-inch rectangles (I).
- Two 3-inch x 28-inch rectangles for leaves.
From dark green print cut:
- Two 1-inch x 14-1/2-inch strips and two 1-inch x 15-1/2-inch strips for inside border.
- Eight 1-1/8-inch x 12-inch bias strips for stems.
- Four 4-1/2-inch x 30-1/2-inch strips for outside border.
- Four 4-1/2-inch squares for cornerstones.
- Five 2-1/2-inch x 44-inch strips for binding.
Dark Green Inside Border:
- Sew a 1-inch x 14-1/2-inch dark green inner border strip to opposite sides of center square. Open and press.
- Sew remaining inside border strips to top and bottom of center square. Open and press.
- Referring to photo, use quilter’s marking pen or pencil to draw placement lines for stems, leaves and flowers onto center square.
- Pin tear-away stabilizer to back of center square.
- Fold the eight bias strips in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.
- Sew long edges of each together with a 1/4-inch seam. Trim seams to 1/8 inch. Press seams flat, centered and hidden on back.
- Pin stems to center square, following placement lines.
- With matching thread, blanket-stitch along both long edges of each stem.
- Trace leaf pattern at bottom onto tracing paper and cut out.
- Pin two 3-inch x 28-inch rectangles of medium green print together with right sides facing and edges matching.
- Using quilter’s marking pen or pencil, trace around leaf pattern 14 times.
- With matching thread and a short straight stitch, sew on outline of each leaf, leaving an opening on one side for turning. Trim points and seams, leaving a narrow seam allowance.
- Turn leaves inside out and with matching thread, hand sew openings closed.
- Pin eight leaves to center block as shown in photo.
- With matching thread and a straight stitch, sew the leaves to the center square using the dotted lines on the leaf pattern as a guide. Backtrack stitching as needed to avoid stops and starts.
- Trace doily flower pattern below onto tracing paper and cut out.
- Cut out two doily flowers from two different doilies.
- Using green thread, zigzag around bottom (cut edge) and stem of each flower.
- With green thread and a straight stitch, add lines radiating from the stem as shown in the photo.
- With matching thread, hand-sew top edge of each doily flower to center square.
- Press each light and dark rose circle in half with wrong sides facing.
- Fold each as shown in Fig. 1 below.
- With matching thread, gather bottom edge of each tightly and fasten off.
- With folds exposed, pin roses to center square as planned.
- With matching thread, machine-sew over bottom gathered edge of each rose and hand-tack the top of each rose to the center square.
- Pin the remaining leaves to the base of the roses as shown in Fig. 2 below.
- With matching thread, straight stitch through the center of each leaf 1/4-inch above the bottom edge of each rose.
- Fold the top of the leaf down, covering the raw edge of the rose.
- With matching thread, stitch a vein down the center of the folded half of the leaf to hold.
- Pin light rose and dark rose 4-1/2-inch squares together with right sides facing and edges matching.
- With matching thread and a 1/4-inch seam, sew around three sides of square, leaving the bottom open. Trim corners and turn right side out.
- With matching thread, hand-sew 1/2-inch from top edge. Pull to gather edge to 1-1/2 inches. Fasten off thread.
- Make two pleats along bottom raw edge of vase, making bottom edge about 1-3/4 inches across.
- Pin vase to center square so vase covers the stems by about 3/4 inch.
- Straight stitch across gathers on vase and blanket-stitch down both sides of vase.
- Trim bottom edge of vase even with outside edge of green inside border.
- Remove stabilizer.
- Do all piecing with right sides of fabrics facing and an accurate 1/4-inch seam. Press seams toward darker fabric.
Rose Block—see Fig. 3 (make 12):
- Sew a light rose triangle (B) to a tan triangle (C) along short edges to form a pieced triangle.
- Sew B/C triangle to a light rose triangle (A). Trim to a 2-inch square.
- Sew long edges of a dark rose triangle (F) to a tan triangle (D). Trim to a 2-inch square.
- Sew a dark rose/tan square to opposite sides of the pieced square to form a pieced rectangle as shown in Fig. 3 at left.
- Sew a dark rose rectangle (G) to the bottom of the pieced rectangle.
- Sew a medium green rectangle (H) to opposite sides.
- Sew a tan rectangle (E) to the top and a medium green rectangle (I) to the bottom.
- Square block to 8 inches.
- Repeat to make 12 rose blocks.
- Lay out rose blocks around center square as shown in layout diagram at left.
- Join top and bottom edges of side blocks, then sew joined blocks to opposite sides of center square.
- Join side edges of top and bottom rows of blocks, then sew joined blocks to top and bottom edges of center.
Prairie Points—see Fig. 4 (make 28):
- Fold a 4-3/4-inch light rose square in half with wrong side facing.
- Fold both top corners down to center forming a triangle. Press to crease.
- Repeat to make 28 prairie points.
Outside Border Corners:
- Cut remaining doily into quarters with scalloped edges as shown in layout diagram.
- Pin a quarter section of doily in each of the four 4-1/2-inch dark green squares with raw edges matching adjacent sides.
- Baste edges to hold.
- Hand-tack top edges of each doily to fabric square.
- Pin raw edges of seven prairie points to long raw edge of each 4-1/2-inch-wide dark green border strip, overlapping them about 1/4 inch or as needed to fit.
- Baste in place, sewing 1/8 inch from raw edges.
- With right sides facing and long edges matching, sew an outside border to opposite side edges of pieced top. Open and press prairie points toward borders.
- Sew a dark green square (with doily) to opposite short ends of remaining border strips, making sure doilies are positioned as shown in photo.
- Sew a border strip with corners to top and bottom edges of pieced top and press as before.
- Mark pieced top as desired for hand quilting.
- Place backing fabric wrong side up on a flat surface.
- Center batting on top of backing.
- Center pieced top on batting and smooth out all wrinkles.
- Baste layers together.
- Hand-quilt as marked.
- Machine stitch 1/8 inch from outer edges of pieced top.
- Cut away excess batting and backing fabric and square top.
- Remove basting.
BINDING AND HANGING SLEEVE:
- Sew short ends of binding strips together diagonally to make one long strip. Trim and press seams open.
- Press one short end diagonally 1/4 inch to wrong side.
- Press strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing.
- Sew binding strip to right side of pieced top with edges matching and a 1/4-inch seam, mitering corners.
- Hem the short ends of an 8-inch x 36-inch strip of backing fabric and fold in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing.
- Sew raw edges even with top edge of wall hanging for hanging sleeve.
- Fold binding to back, encasing raw edges.
- Hand-sew fold of binding to back of quilt.
- Hand-sew fold of hanging sleeve to back of quilt.
Finished Size: Wall hanging measures about 38-1/2 inches square.
Craft originally sent in by Yvonne Wilson of Huntingdon, Pennsylvania