Instructions

GAUGE: When working with a size H hook, 4 scs and 4 rnds = 1 inch. To save time, take time to check gauge.

Techniques/stitches used: Refer to knitting/crocheting abbreviations below.

  • Dec 1: Insert hk in first sc, yo and draw a lp through; insert hk in next sc, yo and draw a lp through; yo and draw yarn through all 3 lps on hk.

DIRECTIONS: Before you begin, refer to gauge, techniques/stitches used, etc.

The inner and outer soles are worked in continuous rnds from right side (RS) of work throughout. When adding markers, slip the yarn through the st without tying it on so it can easily be moved with each new rnd.

INNER SOLE (make 2):

  1. I-Rnd 1 (RS): With H hk, ch 10(11,12), work 2 scs in second ch from hk, sc in each remaining ch until one remains, mark last st made for beg of toe, work 3 scs in last ch; continuing around, sc in each lp on opposite side of ch: count 20(22,24) scs.
  2. I-Rnd 2: Work 4 scs in beg st of I-Rnd 1, sc in each of next 3 sts, work 2 scs in next st, mark last st made for beg of ball of foot; sc in each of next 4(5,6) sts, move toe marker to last st made; work 2 scs in each of next 3 sts, sc in each of next 4(5,6) sts, work 2 scs in next st, mark last st made for end of ball of foot; sc in each of next 6 sts.
  3. I-Rnd 3: Continuing with attached yarn, ch 15(16,17), work 2 scs in second ch from hk, sc in each remaining ch, sc in same st as last sc of I-Rnd 2 (the lower section will appear off-center until last side of I-Rnd 3 is worked); sc in each st to first ball marker, sc in marked st, move marker to new stitch; sc in each st to toe marker, sc in marked st and next st, move marker to last st made; work [2 scs in next st, sc in next st] three times; sc in each st to next ball marker, sc in marked st, move marker to new stitch; sc in each remaining st and each free lp on opposite side of ch; mark last st made as beg of heel.
  4. I-Rnd 4: Work 3 scs in first st of I-Rnd 3, sc in each st across to first ball marker, work 2 scs in marked st, move marker to last st made; sc in each st to toe marker, sc in marked st and each of next 2 sts, move marker to last st made; work [2 scs in next st, 1 sc in next st] three times; sc in each st to next ball marker, work 2 scs in marked st, move marker to last st made; sc in each st to heel marker, sc in marked st, move marker to the new stitch.
  5. I-Rnd 5: Work 2 scs in each of next 3 sts, sc in each st to first ball marker, sc in marked st, move marker to the new stitch; sc in each st to toe marker, sc in marked st and next st, move marker to last st made; work [2 scs in next st, 1 sc in next st] three times; sc in each st to next ball marker, sc in marked st, move marker to the new stitch; sc in each st to heel marker, sc in marked st and next st, move marker to last st made.
  6. I-Rnd 6: Work [2 scs in next st, 1 sc in next st] three times; sc in each st to first ball marker, work 2 scs in marked st, remove marker; sc in each st to toe marker, sc in marked st and each of next 2 sts, remove marker; work [2 scs in next st, 1 sc in next st] three times; sc in each st to next ball marker, work 2 scs in marked st, remove marker; sc in each st to heel marker, sc in marked st and next st, move marker to last st made.
  7. I-Rnd 7: Sc in each st to heel marker, sc in marked st and next st, sl st in each of next 2 sts, remove marker: count 82(86,90) scs. Fasten off. Use tapestry needle to weave in loose ends.

OUTER SOLE (make 2):

  1. O-Rnds 1-6: Rep I-Rnds 1-6.
  2. O-Rnd 7: Sc in each st to heel marker, sc in marked st and next st, move marker to last st made: count 82(86,90) scs.
  3. O-Rnd 8: Sc in each st to heel marker, sc in marked st and remove marker, leaving the yarn uncut to join the soles.

JOINING SOLES:

  1. J-Rnd 1 (RS): With wrong sides together, line up foundation chs of inner and outer soles and pin together to prevent shifting.
  2. With outer sole facing up, insert hk in next st of outer sole and the corresponding st of inner sole and sc; in the same way, sc in each st around, joining outer edges of soles to just past the toe; remove pins, slip an insole inside so right side of insole faces inner sole and smooth out any wrinkles; continue to sc around outer edges of sole to beg sc.
  3. J-Rnd 2: Sc in each st around, join with a sl st in beg 2 scs of J-Rnd 1. Fasten off. Weave in loose ends.

UPPER MOCCASIN (make 2):

  1. U-Row 1 (RS): With G hk, ch 12(13,14), mark last ch made, ch 54(56,58) more; taking care not to twist ch, sc in marked ch and in each remaining ch to beg; move marker to last st made. Continuing around, sl st in first free lp on opposite side of ch, sc in same free lp as sl st, mark this st with a new marker, sc in each remaining free lp on opposite side of scs; sc in each ch around; sc in each st ending in first marked st: count 78(82,86) scs.
  2. U-Row 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in each st around to opposite marked st.
  3. U-Row 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in first st, dec 1, sc in each st around until 3 sts remain, dec 1, sc in marked st.
  4. U-Rows 4-8: Repeat U-Row 3: count 82(86,90) sts, including the end of each row around the toe as a st. U-Row 8 is a wrong side (WS) row. (There should be an equal number of sts around the outside of this piece and the joined soles. If the numbers are not equal, either rip back to find your error or sc the same st to 2 sts where needed so it comes out even.)
  5. Joining U-Row 9: With inside sole facing right side up, count 8 sts to the left of center front st and mark this st. Turn upper moccasin right side up and lay it on top of inner sole, matching last st of U-Row 8 with the marked st of J-Rnd 2, sc the matching 2 sts tog; matching st to st (the end of each row of upper moccasin toe counts as 1 st), continue to sc through both layers around to beg; join with a sl st in beg sc. Fasten off. Weave in loose ends.

TIE (make 2): With G hk, tightly ch 135. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch-long tail.

FRINGED TONGUE (make 2):

  1. T-Row 1 (WS): With G hk, ch 16 for all sizes, sc in second ch from hk and each ch across: count 15 scs.
  2. T-Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, turn; sc in each of the first 10 sts, leaving the last 5 sts unworked for fringe.
  3. T-Row 3 (WS): Ch 6, for next fringe, turn; working from back of ch, sc in second ch from hk and in each ch and st across: count 15 scs.
  4. T-Rows 4-17: Rep T-Rows 2 and 3 until nine fringes are made. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch-long tail for sewing.

FINISHING:

  • Center the fringed tongue on the front of a moccasin so the straight end opposite the fringe is 1 st below the opening and the fringe overlaps the opening (it will be folded down later).
  • Thread needle with yarn tail and sew the straight edge to the upper part of moccasin. Fold the tongue down 4 sts from the straight end and tack each end in place with a single st just above the fringe. Weave in loose ends.
  • Thread needle with 6-inch length of yarn on one end of a tie. Use needle to pull the tie through the tongue and upper moccasin, inserting it at one side of the center (5th) fringe 2 sts up from the beginning of fringe. Leaving several inches of tie in front, weave tie under 2 sts and over 2 sts around top opening of moccasin. Do not stitch through the tongue. When front of moccasin is reached, bring tie through upper moccasin and tongue on opposite side of center fringe.
  • Knot each end of ch. Trim off the tails. Make a bow.
  • Hand-washing is recommended. Blot-out the excess water with a towel, reshape each moccasin and let them air-dry.

FINISHED SIZE: Directions are for Women’s size 5/6 moccasins. Changes for Women’s sizes 7/8 and 9/10 are in parentheses.

Abbreviations

  • ch(s) chain(s)
  • dc(s) double crochet(s)
  • hdc(s) half double crochet(s)
  • hk hook
  • sc(s) single crochet(s)
  • sk skip or skipped
  • sp space
  • sl st slip stitch
  • tr(s) triple crochet(s)
  • beg beginning
  • lp(s) loop(s)
  • rep repeat
  • rnd(s) round(s)
  • RS right side
  • sl slip
  • st(s) stitch(es)
  • tog together
  • WS wrong side
  • yo yarn over
  • * or [ ] Instructions after * or ­between brackets are ­repeated a ­given number of times.
  • ( ) Instructions in ­parentheses are all worked in one stitch or space as ­indicated.

Padded Moccasins from Marilyn Seivley of Wichita, Kansas